That’s right, you can have ten different tent options and only pack one tarp in your bag.

The accompanying sketches show a few of the many different tents which may be made from any available piece of cloth or canvas. The material shouldn’t be cut or tampered with, except that rings or tapes are attached at various points as indicated. This will keep the integrity of the material.

For each tent, the sketches show a front elevation, with a ground plan, or a side view; also a view of the material laid flat, with dotted lines to indicate where creases or folds will occur. In most of the tents a ring for suspension is fastened at the center of one side. This may be supported by a pole or hung by means of a rope from any convenient fastening; both methods are shown in the sketches. Guy ropes are required for a few of the different models, but most of them are pegged down to the ground.

1. Basic Square Tent

A square of material hung by one corner, from any convenient support, in a manner to make a comfortable shelter; it will shed rain and reflect heat. This square makes a good fly or a good ground cloth for any of the tents.

7 x 7 sheet is ample for a one-man shelter; 9 x 9 will house two.

2. Rectangle Tent

A rectangle equal to two squares. A shelter roomy and warm, with part of one side open toward the fire.

3. The Lean-To

Here the rectangle is folded to make a “lean-to” shelter, with the roof front suspended from a rope or from a horizontal pole by means of cords. The two corners not in use are folded under, making a partial ground cloth. A square open front is presented toward the camp fire.

4. Triangle Lean-To

Same in plan as No.3, but has a triangular front and only one point of suspension.

5. Toque Tent

Uses all the cloth, has a triangular ground plan, a square front opening, plenty of head room at the back and requires two or more guy lines. This shelter resembles a “toque” (basically a beanie).

6. Miner’s Tent

Two corners are turned under. This tent is enclosed on all sides, with a door in front.

7. Conical Tent

Conical tent or “wigwam,” entirely enclosed, with door in front. Two corners of the canvas are turned under.

8. Canoe Tent

Has a wall on one side and requires two or more guy lines and is shown with a pole support. The front has a triangular opening.

9. Canoe Tent with Fly

A combination of No. 8, with No. 1 in use as an awning or fly. Requires three guy lines and can be supported by a rope instead of a pole

This sketch shows both tent and fly suspended by means of a rope. The “awning” may be swung around to any angle.

10. Combo Tent

Combination of Nos. 1 and 2; they may be fastened together by a coarse seam or tied with duct tape. The ground plan is an equal-sided triangle, with a door opening on one side, as shown. There is no waste cloth.

11. Bonus! Sibley Awning 

No. 10 changed to a conical shape and suspended as a canopy. The circular shape is secured by the use of small-size gas pipe or limber poles bent into a large hoop. Of course guy lines may be used, but would probably be in the way. Notice that a little more material for making a wall would transform the canopy into a “Sibley” tent.

Laying out your options

The diagram below shows a method for laying out, on your cloth, the location of all the rings to make the above tents and shelters.

Side note: How cool would it be to pull out 1 canvas on your next outing and have 11 different shelter options?

Anyways…No dimensions are given and none are required. The diagram is good for any size. Most of the fastenings are found on radial lines, which are spaced to divide a semi-circle into eight equal angles, 22-1/2 degrees each; these intersect other construction lines and locate the necessary loops and rings. The numbers given at each ring refer back to the sketch numbers.

Suppose the material at hand is a canvas 7-1/2 feet by 15 feet. The accompanying table will give the dimensions for the various shapes from tent 1 to 11.

Ring Location

If in doubt about the location of rings on your canvas, suspend the tent by the center ring and fasten the loops temporarily by means of safety pins, draw the tent into shape and shift the fastenings as required. The guy lines should have hooks or snaps at one end for ready attachment and removal; the other end should be provided with the usual slides for “take up.” The edge of the cloth where the large ring for suspension is fastened should be bound with tape or have a double hem, for it is the edge of the door in most of the tents shown.

Tent Materials

For the actual tent material, find a stack cover, a tarpaulin, a tent fly, an awning, or buy some wide cotton cloth, say 90-inch. All the shapes may be repeatedly made from the same piece of material, if the rings for changes are left attached. In Nos. 3, 4, 6, 7, 8, 9, 11, a portion of the canvas is not used and may be turned under to serve as sod-cloth, or rolled up out of the way. If your material is a large piece, more pegs and guy lines will be required than is indicated in the sketches. The suspension ring, 1-1/2 inches or 2 inches in diameter, should be well fastened, with sufficient reinforcement to prevent tearing out; 1-inch rings fastened with liberal lengths of tape are large enough for the pegs and guy lines. Also reinforce along the lines of the strain from peg to pole.

Note: This may sound odd, but using a piece of card stock paper and modeling these tents before you cut and mark your canvas will be a big help. Once you see the design in the model, then remembering how to construct the shelter with the canvas will be a piece of cake.

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